Using retinol correctly.

What retinol does: as a vitamin A derivative it speeds up cell renewal, stimulates fibroblasts to form collagen, normalises keratinisation and lightens pigment spots. Effects on fine lines and skin texture are proven in studies over decades. Retinol is converted in the skin via retinal into retinoic acid (tretinoin) – hence it is milder but slower than prescription tretinoin.

Getting started: 0.1–0.3 % retinol, twice a week in the evening on dry, cleansed skin, a pea-sized amount for the whole face, sparing the eye area and mouth corners. After four weeks every other evening, after eight weeks daily – if the skin allows. Increase the concentration after three months at the earliest.

The 'sandwich method': with sensitive skin first a light moisturiser, then retinol, then moisturiser again. Reduces irritation, costs a little efficacy – ideal for starting.

Sunscreen is mandatory: retinol makes the skin more light-sensitive and is itself broken down by UV. Every morning SPF 30–50, in winter too. Anyone not using sunscreen should not use retinol.

Do not combine: on the same evening no fruit acids (AHA/BHA), no benzoyl peroxide, no high-dose vitamin C – alternate on different days or morning/evening. Not in pregnancy or breastfeeding. Pause one week before peels, microneedling and waxing.

With irritation: pause, barrier care, restart more slowly. Mild redness and flaking in the first weeks ('retinisation') are normal, burning and eczema are not.
When tretinoin: with pronounced sun damage, acne or if retinol achieves nothing after six months – on prescription via dermatology, with the same slow-introduction principle.